Rishikesh Chilled Out India
This is a laid back, chilled-out sort of place with weird and wonderful characters, both Indian and foreign! The Beatles put it on the map in the 1968 and the aura of flower-power love remains. It is one of India’s seven holy cities and is 148 miles from Delhi by car or reached by train from Delhi to Haridwar and 1/2 hour transfer by car.
The Ganges at this point is absolutely crystal-clear and VERY cold but it is the only place along the course of the river that I venture in to bathe completely. Be careful if you choose to take a dip, the current can be strong and underfoot conditions slippy. ALWAYS hold on to something solid and let the locals be your guide.
The town itself is tightly packed on the banks of the Ganges as it flows between the hills. The air is fresh and at night the whole atmosphere becomes deeply spiritual as the evening aarti prayers and chants ring out across the water. I have enjoyed many aartis, but my favourite remains the one at Parmarth Ghat. Best hotels are out of town. Only one side of the town is accessible by road so you may have to cross one of the two suspension bridges to access your accommodation.
Places of Interest:
ASHRAMS
Rishikesh literally means “Hair of Sages” and has a large number of ashrams. It is interesting to go down to the ghats to watch the morning bathing and of course the aarti at night. Most of the ashrams are on the east bank and they cater for pilgrims. Foreigners may need to get special permission to enter and join the courses. Be VERY careful with your choice and always insist on inspecting first. Even the good ones are very basic with simple food. Also, be careful when wandering around, especially single females, because not all saffron robed “sadhus” are what they seem and there are many charlatans plying their trade who are best ignored. Be aware.
WHITE WATER RAFTING
Great place to try it, even for middle aged beginners like me! Trips can last for one afternoon and finish down by the ghats in time for aarti. At least during the summer your clothes dry off as you sit on the steps!
One, or more, day trips can also be organised, sleeping in tents en route. Be VERY careful to choose a reputable company with good safety record, equipment and briefing in English.
YOGA
Meditation, spiritual learning and yoga classes are available at several ashrams and again it is advisable to check out the various institutions in advance. The International Yoga Week usually takes place in February.